An historic railway

Observations from the drive into Spain over Col du Somport on 23 July, 2014:

The Pau–Canfranc railway was a 93 km (58 mi) long international single-track standard gauge railroad line connecting Pau in France and Canfranc in Spain. It opened in 1928.

 

In 1908 the construction of the international Somport tunnel through the Pyrenees and under the border, began. The project was large: tunneling a single straight track 7875 meters (4,012 being in France) 6 meters high and 4.25 meters wide opening into the valley Canfranc, Spain.

The huge "boarded-up" railway station at Canfranc (today) was once one of the busiest in Europe, and is now served by a humble rail-motor as an end of the line station!

The section between Oloron-Sainte-Marie and Canfranc was indefinitely closed in March 1970 due to an accident where the railway bridge of L'Estanguet near Accous was destroyed. Today buses run from Oloron-Sainte-Marie to Canfranc International Railway Station.

On the French side of the border a number of grand viaducts, bridges, stations and tunnels stand as monuments to the vision and engineering of a bygone age. It took over 20 years to build, no doubt interrupted by WW1, but has now laid idle for 44 years.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Exploring the D918

The D918 runs to the north of the Pyrenees, crossing a series of valleys and spurs. Today it gives access to a range of recreation; hiking, cycling, fishing, rafting and skiing. In earlier centuries it was the route of armies and pilgrims.

We first meet the D918 in St Jean Pied du Port. It runs through Issor that our BandB overlooks, and it provides some of the most famous and scenic stages for the annual Tour du France.

 

Col du Soulor, D918, Pyrenees 1474M, and Col d'Aubisque, 1709M.

A high mountain passes in the Pyrenees in France, on road D918, linking Argelès-Gazost with Arthez-d’Asson

Col du Tourmalet, the big daddy of them all! The most often included climb in the TDF.

Only 13.6kM and 1062M for the forth and final climb of the day.

By the morning two days before the stage all the spots on Hautcam up to the finish were taken by large campers. Most on Col du Tourmalet also.

We arrived and parked by the Gave du Pau on the morning of the race and had a picnic lunch; fromage et pain! We then walked the 2 kM up to our selected spot.

The excited and well natured multi-national crowd were entertained by the caravan throwing out sponsor's products prior to the arrival of the riders.

TDF STAGE 18, 24 July 2014. Down from the Col du Tourmalet, and about to start Hautcam.

The symbol of the pilgrims ways over many of the high passes. One of Lenore's friends and per husband did the Camino du Santiago last year. So far we have not been encouraged to follow.

 

The beret is the typical Basque head dress.

In the Basque region of France the Basque language is also displayed on official signs. In this case in Eastern Basque, it follows the French. In the west it often took precedence. Note the high use of z, x and k compared to French.

Sheep, goats and cattle roam free on the higher pastures in summer, often with bells around their necks.

The sheep are milked for cheese production which is sold from farm gates and in local markets.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Travelling from Madrid to Pau (16-19 July)

This segment has been interesting, frustrating and educational.

 

We had a straightforward taxi ride from our hotel to the bus station in Madrid; the driver short changed me, but arrived safely with time to spare.

The station was modern, underground on multiple levels with limited English language support available. The bus was comfortable with assigned seats, air conditioned, 8 channel audio with head phones, water and snacks provided. Also a single screen that displayed GPS, and then a Spanish movie.

The bus stopped at Madrid Airport (code: MAD) and filled the remaining seats. We passed through the airport from our Easyjet flight from Lisbon, and then took a taxi to our hotel (30 Euro flat rate). I also passed thru MAD in December 2012 and used the metro to Centro. I recall being impressed with the modern facilities with excess capacity (cf Lisbon), and I left with a greater Understanding of how the Spanish financial crisis came to pass.

There was an intermediate stop on the way to Pamplona, a change of bus, and then on to the modern underground bus station in Pamplona. The roads were modern, high quality, spare capacity, with an unfinished section (where the money ran out?).

Pamplona to Saint Jean Pied de Port (SJPP) was also by bus, efficient, scenic and 'on time'.

We saw protests in the streets of both Lisbon and Madrid. It is painful that once the mistake of excess government spending (eg Greece) or investment (eg Spain) has happened, there are no good options left. Government employees (teachers, doctors, nurses) bear a higher level of pain, although they were rarely the beneficies of the investment, as in Spain. I will not comment on Greece, which appears different.

When we arrived at the modernised station at SJPP, we found the tracks rusty, weeds growing between the lines, and a bus substituting for 70% of the trip to Bayonne.

As we headed down the valley we saw signs of severe flooding and then sections of rail line washed out and not repaired. Possibly the results of the same severe flooding that I saw south of Lourdes and posted to Facebook, September 2013!

 

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Finally a Train; a regional (motor rail) to Bayonne. Modern, efficient, comfortable.

 

 

At Bayonne station (photo) we could not see or train to Pau listed! The info desk briskly advised "it is a bus! Outside!" A hassled rail official in the car park, with hand written notes, told me the bus for Pau was at 4pm, 1 hour time. I checked with his replacement in the car park after 30 min; yes, 4 pm!

4 came and went, as we sat in the car park with a progressively more aggetated French lady. I went to enquire. Bus is now "after 6pm, because 2 trains have run into each other!" I spoke to 3 more rail officials about what could be done. "Impossible! There was a bus at 4pm, next on at 6pm." I advised them what I thought of their information.

A 6pm bus would be to late to pick up the booked rental car in Pau for the 1 hour drive to our B&B.

Some luck now transpired! An Avis rental site across from the station; very usual for Avis in France. Here the luck ended. I have always enjoyed great Avis rates especially in France due to a supply contract with my previous French employer. I guess that contract is over! My profile and linked credit card now give a terrible rate and block the booking when the desk staff try to adjust! One hour later we have a car, from Bayonne to swap over at Pau downtown, tomorrow.

I assumed that the rail crash must have occurred Saturday afternoon, and therefore the level of disorganisation. But No!

UPDATED: Two French trains, one of them a TGV, collided in south western France on Thursday afternoon, leaving at least 40 injured, three of whom were said to be in a critical condition. Initial reports suggest the crash was caused by a signal failure.

 

The final frustration: Avis Pau downtown closed some time ago. Avis web site not updated, bookings Accepted and advised to customers for downtown, phone call Avis Bayonne to Pau and no mention of the change. After much searching, we were assisted by two young men at a Servo, and drove to Pau Airport to change over the car.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Madrid and Toledo (14-17 July, 2014)

 

Centro Madrid is an architecturally beautiful Baroque city. The climate, squares and 'calles' (streets) lend themselves to alfresco dinning. Tripadvisor has reviews of circa 5500 cafe/restaurants. I think the number of shoe shops must be similar!

Our hotel was close to Sol square (see below) a major focus, and approx half way between the Royal Palace and the Prado gallery, which we visited first up! They are must does which I wrote up in Tripadvisor in Dec 2012.

It continued hot for our time in Madrid, reaching low 40's in the mid to late afternoon. People tend to eat late; after 8pm in Madrid.

Santa Ann square was a short distance from our Hotel, and like most similar areas was heavily used in the evenings. This restaurant where we enjoyed a fish meal had a children's playground just out of shot and included fine mist sprays in the canopy over our heads. Buskers and trinket salespersons wandered the area. In all, a most enjoyable evening!

 

We visited this absolute gem that we had not seen before; the royal convent of the barefoot nuns; Monasterios de las Descalzos Reales. I have posted a Tripadvisor review..... "Not far from "Sol" is this historic convent owned by the state but with 20 nuns in residence. Around the two level cloisters is a series of chapels with variety of messages, artistic styles, and geographic origins.

There are a number of true masterpieces although some have been relocated to the Prado. The tapestries woven to designs by Rubens particularly impressed me. There is a strong narrative of the (often forgotten) place of women in the church, although I think there is a stronger story of the interlinking of royalty, the church, the religious hierarchy, and money!"

Plaza Sol

 

Toledo

Toledo is dominated by Gothic architecture, and predates Madrid as capital. The cathedral is the premier site for the Catholic faith in Spain. The pre visit publicity pushed the message of the city where 3 religions lived side by side in harmony. Any they did for a number of centuries. The bigger picture is that for 8 centuries there were battles to displace the Muslems, leaving a minority without influence. The 'tolerance' period then begain, until the royal decrees issued in 1492 and 1501 ordering Jews and Muslims to convert or leave.

The Tribunal of the Holy Office of the Inquisition, commonly known as the Spanish Inquisition then policed the conversions for a number of centuries; tolerance returning in the 20th century (although the Spanish Civil War and Franco era wasn't great for anyone).

This is the interior of the original Jewish synagogue from the 12 to 15 century era. The style is similar to a Muslim mosque. In the 16th C it was converted to a RC church, and it is now a museum. There is little visible history of the Jews remaining today.

 

 

El Greco;

1. born Doménikos Theotokópoulos, was a painter, sculptor and architect of the Spanish Renaissance. The Disrobing of Christ is a painting begun in the summer of 1577 and completed in the spring of 1579 for the High Altar of the sacristy of the Cathedral of Toledo.
   

The view of Toledo from across the river is dominated by the Cathedral. The artistic wealth contained within the cathedral and the Cardinal's Palace next door are immense. The two are linked by an enclosed walk way (circa bridge of Sighs).

 

 

 

Lisbon!

Lisbon is located on hills that slope down to the Rio Tejo. This photo is from the top of Park Eduardo VII that commemorates the visit of Edward VII of England in the early 1900's.

At the bottom of the park, and across the road from our hotel is a "big screen" where we watched the World Cup final and 3rd/4th match with partisan but well natured crowds.

 

 

This photo is of the cloisters of Jeronimos' Monastery at Belem (Portugese for Bethlehem). The Monastery is an architectural wonder.

Belem is down stream from Lisbon and from here many of Portugal's great explorers left in the 15/16th centuries to chart the world and establish the large Portugese empire. The Portugese clergy followed closely and together they brought back great wealth. Belem has a number of monuments to the explorers; Vasco da Garma is buried in the Monastery Cathedral.

Next to the monastery is the bakery that invented the Portugese Tart; appropriately sampled. (Yum!)

 

Traditional trams serve the old town areas, winding thru the narrow, hilly streets.

Perched high on granite over Sintra is this intreging royal summer palace. It was originally a monastery until the King "secularised the assets" and started to update "the asset".

It appeared to us that his German architect tried to incorporate ideas from every known architectural style into this palace. As you would expect they had some great stuff inside; art, room finishes and furniture et al.

 

Cape da Roca is the most westerly point of mainland Europe; it is just to the north of Lisbon.

As you get closer to Lisbon, the coast becomes less rocky, and the area around Cascais has (and is) the place of villas belonging to European royalty and mega rich; and Europe's largest casino.

 

 

 

Dubai, UAE.

 

Bigger, better, and more of everything! The tallest building in the world, wide roads, modern infrastructure everywhere you look. One thing that surprised us was the large number of medical clinics, private hospitals and services. With 0% personal and GS Tax, Dubai is a big magnet for professionals. And each taxi and bus driver that we meet were from India or Pakistan in Dubai on contract; they then go home leaving Dubai with no liability for health care or pensions in their old age. It is similar for most Emirates air crew.

It all started along the Creek! We found this the most charming part of the city. Wooden boats still ship goods to the Gulf and East Africa. But rather than spices, pearls and dates it is consumer goods, electronics, cars and tyres.

There remains a lot of charm about Dubai. This is the view from where we had dinner. Being Ramadan we had to wait until 7:15 pm (sunset) to eat! We were famished, and enjoyed a seafood platter and juice (no alcohol).

 

 

 

 

Aviation related.

Sept 2013: the RAF Red Arrows perform at the annual Airshow over the Jersey Islands, UK.
St Helier Beach is the Island's original Airport, with landings and take-off restricted to low tide! Today it is the site for the annual Air show, with the esplanade providing a great (and free) vantage point.

Sept 2013: At the annual 'warbirds' Airshow at Duxford; just south of Cambridge, UK.
Imperial War Museum Duxford is a branch of the Imperial War Museum. Britain's largest aviation museum, Duxford houses nearly 200 aircraft, military vehicles, artillery and minor naval vessels in seven main exhibition buildings
Based on the historic Duxford Aerodrome, the site was originally operated by the Royal Air Force (RAF) during the First World War. During the Second World War Duxford played a prominent role during the Battle of Britain and was later used by United States Army Air Forces fighter units in support of the daylight bombing of Germany.

Jun 2014: Display at the enterence to RAAF Wagga Wagga.
The Australian Sabre (foreground) was a re-engined version of the North Amercian F86 which was delivered too late to serve in the Korean War. The Mirage 3 kept close to the original (French) design, with 110 assembled in Australia. In turn the Mirage was replaced by the FA18 Hornet.

Our Winter Trip: 2014

The attached map gives the overview of the planned trip; departing 8 Julyfor 9 week. We are retracing some familiar territory (Madrid, AquitaineFrance, Bordeaux region, and Paris) but we are managing to experience some newstuff. In particular the Baltic States, Russia and Turkey.