This segment has been interesting, frustrating and educational.
We had a straightforward taxi ride from our hotel to the bus station in Madrid; the driver short changed me, but arrived safely with time to spare.
The station was modern, underground on multiple levels with limited English language support available. The bus was comfortable with assigned seats, air conditioned, 8 channel audio with head phones, water and snacks provided. Also a single screen that displayed GPS, and then a Spanish movie.
The bus stopped at Madrid Airport (code: MAD) and filled the remaining seats. We passed through the airport from our Easyjet flight from Lisbon, and then took a taxi to our hotel (30 Euro flat rate). I also passed thru MAD in December 2012 and used the metro to Centro. I recall being impressed with the modern facilities with excess capacity (cf Lisbon), and I left with a greater Understanding of how the Spanish financial crisis came to pass.
There was an intermediate stop on the way to Pamplona, a change of bus, and then on to the modern underground bus station in Pamplona. The roads were modern, high quality, spare capacity, with an unfinished section (where the money ran out?).
Pamplona to Saint Jean Pied de Port (SJPP) was also by bus, efficient, scenic and 'on time'.
We saw protests in the streets of both Lisbon and Madrid. It is painful that once the mistake of excess government spending (eg Greece) or investment (eg Spain) has happened, there are no good options left. Government employees (teachers, doctors, nurses) bear a higher level of pain, although they were rarely the beneficies of the investment, as in Spain. I will not comment on Greece, which appears different.
When we arrived at the modernised station at SJPP, we found the tracks rusty, weeds growing between the lines, and a bus substituting for 70% of the trip to Bayonne.
As we headed down the valley we saw signs of severe flooding and then sections of rail line washed out and not repaired. Possibly the results of the same severe flooding that I saw south of Lourdes and posted to Facebook, September 2013!
At Bayonne station (photo) we could not see or train to Pau listed! The info desk briskly advised "it is a bus! Outside!" A hassled rail official in the car park, with hand written notes, told me the bus for Pau was at 4pm, 1 hour time. I checked with his replacement in the car park after 30 min; yes, 4 pm!
4 came and went, as we sat in the car park with a progressively more aggetated French lady. I went to enquire. Bus is now "after 6pm, because 2 trains have run into each other!" I spoke to 3 more rail officials about what could be done. "Impossible! There was a bus at 4pm, next on at 6pm." I advised them what I thought of their information.
A 6pm bus would be to late to pick up the booked rental car in Pau for the 1 hour drive to our B&B.
Some luck now transpired! An Avis rental site across from the station; very usual for Avis in France. Here the luck ended. I have always enjoyed great Avis rates especially in France due to a supply contract with my previous French employer. I guess that contract is over! My profile and linked credit card now give a terrible rate and block the booking when the desk staff try to adjust! One hour later we have a car, from Bayonne to swap over at Pau downtown, tomorrow.
I assumed that the rail crash must have occurred Saturday afternoon, and therefore the level of disorganisation. But No!
UPDATED: Two French trains, one of them a TGV, collided in south western France on Thursday afternoon, leaving at least 40 injured, three of whom were said to be in a critical condition. Initial reports suggest the crash was caused by a signal failure.
The final frustration: Avis Pau downtown closed some time ago. Avis web site not updated, bookings Accepted and advised to customers for downtown, phone call Avis Bayonne to Pau and no mention of the change. After much searching, we were assisted by two young men at a Servo, and drove to Pau Airport to change over the car.
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