Slovenia

We entered Slovenia from Italy and headed straight to Postojna.

Postojna Cave is the largest cave in Slovenia 24 km of underground tunnels. It has a very long standing 'tourist tradition'; we visited in 1981 and today it is one of the most visited natural landmarks in Slovenia. Visited by approximately 1500 people per day!

More than 5 km of tunnels are open for tourist visits; you move into the cave by a little train and then proceed on foot with a guide. Stalactites, stalagmites, and underground halls and other rock formations are truly amazing.

Carved by the Pivka River it presents at 3 levels; top, oldest, dry and uninteresting; middle, damp, interesting and open to tourists; bottom, where the Pivka flows today, very interesting, difficult and dangerous, and open to specialist guided tours. I climbed thru caves as a University student, but I was fitter and slimmer then, so we chose the middle level.

The Cave has a constant temperature of about 10 degrees Celsius and almost 100% humidity.

We were told that around 100 animal species live in the cave! The main attraction is the proteus, which was at first mistaken for a baby dragon, and is now marketed as the symbol of the cave; a 'pink earth worm'!

This animal is completely adapted to total darkness in its underground habitat. Their eyes are undeveloped, leaving it blind, while its other senses, particularly those of smell and hearing, are acutely developed.

It also lacks any pigmentation in its skin so appears pink.

The Castle in a cave has received increased media coverage of late after decades of neglect. Built in stages from deep in a cave, it's purpose was to be impregnable. Even in its latest, most modern stage in the mid 20th C., it was considered cold and uncomfortable.

Interestingly it stands at the watershed between the Adriatic and Black Seas.

The fortifications withstood a 1 year siege with multiple caves providing access to supplies.

For me the Integration between rock and building was the notable feature.

Pictures left: Far left: The old entrance before a new entrance tower and draw bridge were built.

Top right: View down to drawbridge, from where rock, hot oil etc could be dropped.

Bottom right: Items from the armoury.

Our B+B was in a small village just outside Postojna. It was purpose built by a young couple and very comfortable, with the breakfast room set up to be functional restaurant. The 5 rooms in the establishment were each named after the 5 ancestors who once lived on the site.

 

The village had many wells although the village now has reticulated water, including this one in the middle of the road. The water table is very close to the surface and many people use well-water in their gardens.

In the morning while at the caves I noted a couple of jets manovering over head that looked like F16s, and a couple of times the buz of cannon fire as they dived towards a ridge line. Later in the day I was able to confirm that there was week long, multi country NATO exercises, and the USA had contributed F16s.

We visited an excellent military museum not far from Postojno. In addition to X Soviet equipment there was a range of US equipment; eg a Shermon and Patton tanks.

I had not realised that Austria-Hungary was active in submarine construction (pre WW1) and post WW2 Yugoslava continued design and construction of medium size vessels in the original A-H locations.

 

 

Photographs, clockwise from top left: (1) F-86 (later version with radar) and F-84 Thunderbird (in background, tanks below), both ex-Yugoslovia A.F. (2) Slovenia army picket who asked us not to proceed into the NATO exercise area. (3) The very green tank outside the Military Museum. (4) A local private garden plot, with a man on his mobile.

 

We notices many garden plot being actively worked by family groups, especially in the long summer evenings.

We loved Ljubljana. Stylish, on a river, not too big, and easy to get around.

Always in the corridor from Central Europe to Adriatic, it has a five thousand year history including, the remains of the Roman city of Emona. The old city centre has a medieval castle, Baroque and Art Deco façades, decorative portals and street cafes.

We started with a river cruise which was made by the young guide who impressed us with his linguists skills. He spoke to us with a London 'Estuary Accent' with a touch of Sloane. He asked the Italians which city they came from, so he could speak with the correct accent, and would seamlessly switch into German and Slovenian for those audiences.

In addition to city history and espousing his nationalist pride he told us that Ljubljana had 60,00 University students and an average age just over 30!

He also told us one story behind the cities dragon symbol. It relates to a local dragon and the Greek hero Jason, his mighty Argo galley with a battle-hardened crew of warriors and a barbarian sorceress in tow. Jason was on the run from King Aeetes after he had won the Golden Fleece. He sailed the Argo up the Danube river, then into the Sava, and then finally up into the Ljubljanica river, as he tried to make it back to Thessaly, Greece, any way he could. He killed the Dragon, and carried the dismantled Argo over land to the Adriatic. Some of his crew stayed behind to establish Ljubljana. (Wow! This story has everything.)

Dragon Bridge

Clockwise from top left: (1) The three bridges and square.

(2) Art Deco façade.

(3). Castle on the hill.

European Smoke Tree

 

 

 

 

 

 

Student art

Lake Bled railway station was once a jewel in the Austrian Hungary railway network. Now it accepts 3 car regional passenger services, and their bikes. I am not sure about the paint job!

The area still has great charm!