India Day 11: 10th March 2015

We spent the night at Fort Sawarda, a small fort surrounded by a village of about 5,000 people. It is still the residence of the nobles of the Khangarot clan - an offshoot of the Jaipur royal family.

We were drummed into the Fort, so having been so honoured we decided to dress for dinner.

 

 

Before dinner we did the now usual "village walk" which started with a visit to a home were dinner was starting to be prepared; ground millet baked on a hot plate and then chared by the direct flame. The young boy of the house (centre, top of photo) proudly read his alphabet with English words, to us. Again we were of great interest to the locals. A couple of us even were invited to hold a baby. We were all impressed with how friendly the people were towards us.

As evening was falling there was a stream of workers returning from the field; walking, riding on tractors, or herding goats or cattle. All were happy!

 

The walk lead us out of the town past the piles of drying dung (fuel to burn), past the cremation slabs, to examine an old and now disused step well. We then stopped at a senic spot overlooking what becomes a large lake during the monsoon. Our hosts had brought plastic stackable chairs to site and started a fire and served us real chai as the sun set.

In the fading twilight I took a photo of this tranquil scene; the boat that is essential in the monsoon and children playing under the large banyan tree.

While the lake is largely dry it is a fertile area for the growing of crops.

We then had another 'Mirhandra jeep' ride back to the Fort.

 

 

“ Kim bought a handful of dung-cakes to build a fire. All about, coming and going round the little flames....."

Excerpt From: Kipling, Rudyard. “Kim.” iBooks.

India 9 & 10: 8&9 March 2015

 

The Fort and Palace at Judhpur stands high on a hill overlooking the town. With its steep assents and multiple walls and gates it presents a formidable image of power.

Again there are multiple luxurious rooms, ornate architecture, and possessions such as this collection of "salon chairs", and elephant 'saddles'. (The gate height in all these palaces is very high to allow entry by Royalty on elephant back, and the steeper slopes of the assent are heavily groved to assist traction.) The gates also have large spikes from approx 2M above ground to discourage attacking elephants trying to push the gates in!

 

 

Judhpur is a bustling town requiring great caution and vigilance in crossing roads. The clock tower in the centre of town is quite famous!

We saw a very large flock of cranes at a water hole, feeding on provided grain. They were being harassed by ibises and took flight. They were soon joined by more cranes who knew It was feeding time.

 

 

We also saw many blackbucks such as this one near the pond. The blackbuck is a species of antelope native to the Indian subcontinent that has been classified as near threatened as their population has decreased sharply during the 20th century.







There were many birds in the area including this bluejay siting on a rock.


 

The area was marginal for farming and the monsoon often delivers little rain. This camel herder was proud to have his photo taken!

 

 

 

One cottage industry is rug making. This weaver is quite famous and was proud that he had been visited by Rockerfeller and Greg Chappell with wife and daughter.

A couple of our party bought rugs.

 

 

 

Farmers in the area grow opium poppies (a Government license is required) and many farmers are users. This farmer said that he has an "opium tea" drink twice a day to give an energy lift. Possession of up to 10 grams for personal use is legal. The farmer gave a demo of grinding 1 gram of opium resin and making the tea, offered prayers to Shiva, and then offered to share his tea with visitors.

 

 

Faces in India; Udaipur

 

Locals are proud of their appearance and many like having their photos taken. Some men take particular pride in there moustaches.

In the case of individuals, we always ask before taking their photo, and many of the children do wish to see their photo.

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We were charmed by our accommodation in Udaipur. Even the shy hummingbirds like it! This is where we celebrated the Holi Festival.

A Persian wheel is still used to lift water in remote rural areas. The local indigenous cattle are "long horns"!

 

“There was a drowsy buzz of small life in hot sunshine, a cooing of doves, and a sleepy drone of well-wheels across the fields.”

Excerpt From: Kipling, Rudyard. “Kim.” iBooks.

 

 

 

India Day 2: 1st March 2015

This is Taj Mahal day! Few tourist destinations are as recognisable, but the day presented so much more! Firstly our introduction to the countryside, and the the magnificent Agra Fort. Unfortunately the day was unseasonably wet and cool, with heavy downpours.

I found it hard to do justice to Agra Fort in photos. Built by the invading Mogol's, it is large, well fortified, ornate and perfected many of the architectural features included in the Taj Mahal.

 

 

 

 

From the walls you get a first glimpse of the Taj Mahal.

 

 

 

It has all been said before!

 

 

 

Mr Kahn provide expert site guidance plus photographic and crowd control services.

A holly man receives a free meal from vendors, and man on a bamboo ladder makes some ad hoc additions to the overhead infrastructure!

India Day 4: 3rd March 2015

Day 3

Driving south-west from Karauli towards Bundi we travelled thru agricultural land with many towns and constant cattle and farm equipment on the roads; narrow, bumpy roads with many pot holes. All the skills of our driver where called upon as he had to constantly expect the unexpected. The road users appear to be perfectly adapted to their environment, with few visible signs of accidents.

When we stopped for lunch we saw this young mother wearing the colourful head scarfs favoured in this area. Shades of a "pre-Raphaelite" beauty!

Some farm holdings are small with limited infrastructure, but the soil is futile and the crops appear heathy. The markets are full of a variety of fruit and vegetables; all fresh.

 

 

Rudyard Kipling is associated with Bundi as he lived and wrote in this house on the edge of town. The city centre presented as being both busy and prosperous.



 

 

Bundi is also known for its many "step wells"; the number of steps to reach water depending on the seasonal variation in the water table. As elsewhere there is concern over the falling height of the table!

 

 

In towns and villages there appears to be a standard water pump which tourists sometimes try to use, with varying levels of success and amusement to the locals.

The "royal palace" has moved from the huge and strategic Fort (visited on day 5) to the edge of town. A member of the family welcomed us and agreed to this photo with one of our Aussies. Noel tested the comfort of the bed in one of the guest tents, which was spacious, air conditioned, and with a large bathroom.

The site is on the opposite end of the lake to RK's house!

In the evening a beautiful meal from the palace kitchen was enjoyed, following drinks around a bon fire.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Winter 2015:The Plan

Commemoration of World War I events is centre stage in 2015. We are therefore off to Europe following in the steps of ancestors. Firstly to the Western Front, followed by the beauty of Scotland and Ireland with various family links. We will end with a week in Norway. Why? Just because it is something we have long wished to do!

Autumn 2015: The Plan

Departing on 26th February 2015, Lenore and I are touring northern India, the Kathmandu Valley (Nepal) and the (happy) Kingdom of Bhutan. On the way home we will take a couple of days R & R at Patong Beach, Thailand.

Arriving in New Delhi on a Qantas codeshare from Singapore, we have a couple of days to acclimatise before it is off to Agra and the majestic Taj Mahal.

Then to Bundi, a small town founded in the 14th century on the foot hills of Himalayas, and the place that inspired Rudyard Kipling to write his novel, ‘Kim’

A night in Castle Bijaipur; a 16th century castle that is now converted into a heritage hotel run by the local ruling family.

Onward to Chittorgarh with possibly India's greatest medieval fort overlooking the town. Then it's Udaipur built around the shores of Lake Pichola; known for temples, ornate palaces and impressive merchant homes.

Next is Dera Khairwa, a 15th century fort-palace located in the village of Khairwa in the Pali District, followed by Jodhpu established in the 15th century on the edge of the Great Thar Desert as a major trading centre.

Before returning to Delhi we spend a couple of days in the world famous Sariska National Park. Will we see a tiger?



From Delhi we take a day-light train to Lucknow, where we overnight and do a quick tour of city before continuing by train to Varanasi.

After three nights in Varanasi we fly to Katmandu. From Katmandu we fly to what is sure to be an absolute highlight, the Kingdom of Bhutan.