Dublin

Copyright © noel.moore@gmail.com All comments and questions are welcome.

My recollection from a previous visit to Dublin was of being frozen to the bone. This was a much sunnier experience:

There are a number of narratives that have intrigued me in Dublin.

Dublin has a grand history in the arts; poetry, plays and literature stand out! All those men, but where are the women.

It also has a proud history in education with Trinity College being a masthead. The Book of Kells alone is a milestone in man's desire to share knowledge, and communicate effectively between nations and across generations.

You can not stay in the town without hearing of, and seeing evidence of their Fight for Independence. The 1916 uprising is often mentioned and Kilmainham Gaol where 14 leaders were executed is now a major, and expanding tourist attraction. The Leaders of the rebellions of 1798, 1803, 1848, 1867 and 1916 were detained here.

We heard a number of stories explaining Dublin's many coloured doors. One says that Queen Victoria requested all doors to be painted black to mark her husband's death, so the Irish painted them many colours instead. It as good a story as any, but with no factual basis!

The top photo is the Dublin Custom House. It had to overcome community protests, and construction on a swamp! Started in 1781, it was finished ten years later, projecting four distinct facards.

On the north face at Beresford Place are personifications of the four continents of world trade – Africa, America, Asia, and Europe. What! No Australia? Talking pre 1800, I guess you can understand our non existent profile.


The Guinness factory is huge! Producing 30 million pints a day, it has to be huge.


   

The Samuel Beckett Bridge is shaped like a harp on its side. It is located in the rejuvenated old Dockland that is now their financial area. Many international companies have a presence here to assist them to minimise (or avoid) paying tax in countries like Australia, U.K., U.S.A. etc.



The older O'Connell Bridge over the River Liffey, is only a little further upstream.


On the day we toured Docklands there was a cruise ship in port: MS Royal Princess with 3,600 passengers. One of 23 cruise ships this month!

Trinity College Library Dublin is the largest library in Ireland and, as a legal deposit or "copyright library", it has rights to receive material published in the Republic of Ireland free of charge. The volume held is therefore large.

The Library is the permanent home of the famous Book of Kells. Two of the four volumes are on public display, one opened to a major decorated page and the other to a typical page of text.

We happily paid the 9 Euro each (seniors price) to view the Book of Kells and the Library. Photography is strictly banned in the dimly lit Kells area, but non flash photography is allowed in the library where we were also able to watch restoration work.

The design of the library is impressive with a high dome ceiling, and two rows of male figures, one down each side.

The busts are of the great philosophers and writers of the western world and also of men connected with Trinity College - famous and not so famous. I photographed Isaac Newton as my vote for a great scentist.

I was starting to wonder why there were no Irish women. One B and B proprietor said she was one of 15 children; another said "1 of 12", so I'm sure they were busy.

Tipperary and Waterford

Copyright © noel.moore@gmail.com All comments and questions are welcome.

We were a little under whelmed by Tipperary; possibly it is having a slow down before the Churn Rolling Championship! The biggest action appeared to be at O'Dwyer Brothers! Our B+B's landlady later entertained us with a story of how she once saw a nun in full habit coming out of the Snooty Pig, but even it was quiet on that night!

Finally we wandered into Kiely's pub with a quiet dining room, and were soon in conversation with Eddy who assured us this was the best place in town to eat and that the Kiely family had invented 7Up, before "selling it to the Amercians"! He also told us that he was revisiting his home, and had played at a festival just out of town the previous night.

Eddy was born in 1930, left school at 14as parents had to pay for schooling after age 14. At 17 he rode his bike to Dublin, sold the bike and worked for the benevolent Guinnes Company for the first 5 weeks after which he gained alternative accommodation and work.

After a great dinner at Kiely's we drove the 8 kM back into the Glen of Aherlow and our B+B. Imagine our surprise at breakfast when Eddy appeared! He was staying at the same B+B! So we had a further grand chat about his very interesting life. He was dressed in his best for the scattering of his cousin's ashes at the spot where she played as a girl. Earlier in the week he had cleared the over grown area and he was hoping for a dozen to be there for the scattering and wake! Such an interesting person.

3 of our group visited the Waterford Crystal visitors centre taking the 9Euro tour of the 'special orders' section.

The tour was followed by an opportunity to purchase items.

The Republic has VAT of 9% making products and accommodation cheaper than in the U.K. with its 20% VAT. This difference appears to significantly assist its tourism industry.

Waterford is a Viking name and its 'Viking Triangle' was one of the few locations where the Vikings built rather than just raided. (They also built in Dublin.)



In the 19th century there were 5 ship builders in Waterford in addition to having a working port.

It was a sunny afternoon in Dublin.

People were out in the parks, pubs, and listening to music. Children were also feeding the ducks, who are out numbered by sea gulls.

Again a variety of talent was on display and on the Hop on Hop off tours the musical talent continued with the driver giving commentary as well as some verses of well known Irish songs.

Galway to Tipperary (including Moore Abbey)

Copyright © noel.moore@gmail.com All comments and questions are welcome.

South of Galway the geology is once again very bold and contrasted.

Muddy sea inlets, and extremely rocky hills. Some fields had rock walls 2 meters thick and high, and there were still more rocks in the fields. And as always the multiple shades of green!

The Cliffs of Moher are located in County Clare, rising to a maximum height of 214 metres. They receive almost one million visitors a year; we saw 30 coachs parked as we were leaving.




The rocks that make up the Cliffs of Moher were formed over 300 million years ago. Bands of sandstone, siltstone and shale are exposed in a spectacular fashion.

The sand, silt and mud carried by large ancient rivers were dumped into the sea at the mouth of great delta. Over the following millions of years it was compressed; before drifting around the globe, being uplifted and eroded!

 

The squiggly trails, called scolicia, that I saw in the pavements of Galway, are here in abundance. I learnt from the impressive visitors centre that they are feeding trails left by some unidentified marine creature and are commonly referred to as "worming". It could have been a worm, a snail or a crustacean.

There is certainly a distinctive if not unique character, style, and sense of humour in Ireland. We experienced one dimension in a Galway pub with live music, almost sitting on top of the musicians. Another dimension is in their villages and the way villages or groups of housing take on identical or contrasted colours. Also the way they apply contracts like a bright red door on a cream house. For that matter why stop with the door.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Moore Abbey

In the afternoon we visited Moore Abbey located just to the south of Tipperary, and even closer to our overnight B+B.

It provided a highlight that Tipperary didn't provide. The town with a grand history appears to be in marked decline.

 

Galway

 

Copyright © noel.moore@gmail.com All comments and questions are welcome.

The day started cloudy after overnight rain, but promised better things to come! After a lengthy discussion with our B+B owner, Bridie, and patting her golden retriever (still a puppy at heart), we headed off to a craft village in the town of Spiddal.

The Celtic 'coin' jeweller entertained us with his stories of his visit to Australia, and laughter all the way to the bank! The basket weaver tried to impress us by saying that he gave one of his baskets to Prince Charles a few weeks ago.

The popular coffee shop had an array of fresh baked, including some scrumptious sausage rolls with relish. We were darkly told that the owner was actually a kiwi!

 

By the time we drove back to Galway Central the sun was out, as were the crowds and the buskers. First up we met Declan "you can see me on YouTube" (Declan Walsh Entertains ! with spoons, Galway). If you watch the clip you will understand why I placed him next to the statue of Oscar Wilde.

Next we came across a group at probably the best busking location in town, doing 'folk rock' in the Amercian parlance. Instrumentals okay; vocals possibly requiring a little more work. The bass player doubled up with his foot symbols! (Cool)

 

 

I was really taken with the puppeteer! Very clever with a classical music background.

By this time our pockets were much lighter!

 

 

 

 

Then Serendipity came into play. As we approached St Nicholas church we heard beautiful singing. As we entered a steward asked "which language do you speak?" We were lucky enough to catch the end of a concert by a touring Amercian choir. They were very appreciative that we had come to listen!

 

 

The church has many interesting features; built in 1320, it is dedicated to St Nicholas of Myra (now Turkey - we saw other monuments to him last year in Turkey). Christopher Columbus worshipped here in 1477, and the church includes a Knight Templar 'Crusader's Tomb'.

Having recently visited the Western Front, we were drawn to the WW1 monument.

 

 

 

 

The catholic cathedral is 50 years old and is an impressive modern rendition of classics architecture. The internal stone work took my breadth away; quality workmanship with an intricate pattern. I tried to understand the sequence; I was sure there must be one, but it was too complex! Some of the large stones had embedded sea shells clearly visible.

The floor, altar, et al are beautiful marble from various locations. The green dome is visible from much of the town. It shows what can be done in the 20th century with a big budget!

 

 

 

 

 

As we crossed back across the river from the cathedral, we spied a number of fishermen plying there great skills as fly fishermen, right there in the middle of the town.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Soon I was also noting the sea shells embedded in the pavement stone, and then a series of stones with fossils of large worms with clearly distinguished heads; up to 20cm long and as thick as a large finger.

 

Yes, there is much to see in Galway!

 

 

 

Sligo to Galway

Copyright © noel.moore@gmail.com All comments and questions are welcome.

 

As we left Sligo the weather turned again. And we were leaving Yeats country for Joyce country! Again as in the north of Ireland, the country is green down to the ocean, rugged and beautiful. In places there are peat bogs, and sheep are the predominant primary industry. There are deserted and ruined farm houses and new ones. But between the basic farm houses are the much grander ones of those from the city who have made the sea change or at least decided to establish a holiday house.

It is the end of school term here and children are experiencing the new, like surfing; wets suits a necessity! There was actually some surf but only for the hardy and facilities are basic.

 

 

 

 

Beautiful and rugged scenery, with hilltops below the cloud line. The route along the coastline was called very aptly The Wild Atlantic Way.

We travelled through a number of glacial valleys, with lakes and fast flowing streams. A few farms had signs out selling 'wild salmon' and smoked 'wild salmon'.


 

 

 

Finally we arrive in Galway, check into our B+B, and walk up-town! Galway is known for its vibrant pub and music culture, often located in the ancient buildings of its centre. It also is a popular tourist destination and this provides the new money for an old mix.

 

 

 

Sligo area (Ireland)

Copyright © noel.moore@gmail.com All comments and questions are welcome.

Beautiful Glencar Lough near our 'Sligo BandB'. It is a Glacial lake of 2.5kM length.

 

And the near by Glencar Waterfall that empties into the Lough (Lake).

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

There are fantastic granite features in the area which were part of the attraction for Lord Louis Mountbatten, who was killed with 3 others a few kM away from here by an IRA bomb during the 'troubles'; in 1979.

 

 

 

The bottom photo is the view from the breakfast room of our BandB. It is amazing how far up the steep slops they graze sheep.

The BandB is also close to the church yard where Yeats is buried, and where Charles and Camilla planted a tree last month during their historic visit to Ireland.


 

 

Iona

Copyright © noel.moore@gmail.com All comments and questions are welcome.

The day was not kind to us! 10 degrees C, gusting winds, and then late in the day the mist rolled in again. We rugged up and soldIered on.

Iona has been described as mystical, inspirational, religious, artistic, and a place of magical forces.

We must add that it is remote, scenic, and instructional.

We landed at Martyrs Bay, so named for the two (or more) occasions that monks were killed here by Viking raiders.

 

A convent for Benedictine nuns was established in about 1208, and flourished until the Reformation when the buildings were demolished. It is said to be one of the best remaining ruins of a medieval nunnery in Europe, and would have required some strong willed and well organised women to survive for so many centuries.

I was taken by the mix of stone colours used in its construction.

The Book of Kells was produced on Iona towards the end of the 8th century, and the island's exemplary high crosses were sculpted and here developed the outer ring that became characteristic of the "Celtic cross".


 

The series of Viking raids on Iona began in 794 and, after its treasures had been plundered many times, Columba's relics were removed and divided two ways between Scotland and Ireland in 849 as the monastery was abandoned. The Book of Kells was taken to Ireland for safe keeping.

The photographs to the left and below are from the small but excellently organised museum next to the cathedral.

 

 

The present Benedictine abbey, Iona Abbey, was built in about 1203. According to tradition it was built upon the monastery founded in 563 by the monk Columba, who had been exiled from his native Ireland with twelve companions. The monastery was hugely successful, and played a crucial role in the conversion to Christianity of the Picts of present-day Scotland in the late 6th century and of the Anglo-Saxon kingdom of Northumbria in 635. Many satellite institutions were founded, and Iona became the centre of one of the most important monastic systems in Great Britain and Ireland.

Iona Abbey, now an ecumenical church, is of particular historical and religious interest to pilgrims and visitors alike.

 

When we visited Derry, we obtained an additional part of the story! (Photo on left)

 

Fort William & Isle of Mull

Copyright © noel.moore@gmail.com All comments and questions are welcome.

The Jacobite steam train runs a tourist service twice a day. We took the regular Scotish Rail service from Fort William to Mallaig return. It's cheaper, runs further and (most importantly) the timetable fitted our schedule and the need to take a ferry to Mull in the afternoon.

 

 

A highlight of this run for many tourists is the railway viaduct that was used in the Harry Potter films.

Once again it was classic Scotish scenery; green, rocky, swift streams, lochs and rugged bays. We also noted a few oyster farms in the bays.

The weather was again low double digit, overcast with periods of light Scottish mist type of rain.

The crossing to Isle of Mull is only 45 minutes, and again most scenic. We bought fish and chips and ate them in the SUV while waiting for our ferry.

 

Seafood is a speciality on Mull!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The weather on the west coast of Scotland can be unpredictable, and tourist and locals alike have complained about the absence of summer weather. We have had a few days now of 11 to 13 degrees C, overcast with light showers. Sunrise to sunset is over 18 hours, but we would just like to see the sun!

A priority destination for me was Tobermory on the north coast. It is the colourful setting for the BBC Scotland's children's series 'Balermory' which showed in Australia for a period and I used to watch with a grand-daughter!

It also had an excellent seafood restaurant popular with some sailors off their international yachts as well as tourists including our group.

 

 

 

 

Beautiful France

Copyright © noel.moore@gmail.com All comments and questions are welcome.

Beautiful women, fields of poppies and such a variety of architecture!

I had not observed houses with this intricate brickwork patterns in other areas of France.

 

 

 

 

 

We found ourselves in the middle of School children taking an excision on a canal boat, travelling thru locks. Half are on the boat on the way up thru the locks, and they then swap over for the return trip back down stream.

 

 

 

 

Giverney was spectacular on a warm sunny afternoon, the mixture of flowers, ponds and vegetation a delight to visit.

When we talk about France, food quickly enters the conversation. Food and good wine are not expensive in France! This pix is of a quick meal in our Coucy Gite.

 

 

 

 

 

The scenery is varied and beautiful. This is sunset from the terrace in Coucy. We had several fine and sunny days, delightful sunsets and daylight to 10 pm making for good sightseeing.

 

 

Gardens are always colourful and free form. Summer is celebrated with a range of bright flowers planted, nurseries in most villages are well patronised with wild flowers and poppies along the roads.