Flam

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Flam, meaning "little place with steep mountains," is nestled on Aurlandsfjord, the innermost arm of the world's second longest fjord, Sognefjord, which stretches halfway across Norway. With its snow-capped mountains, waterfalls, river, meadows and picturesque farms, Flam is beautiful and accessable by boat, car and train.

We received a surprise while sitting in our hotel room after breakfast to see that a cruise liner had sneaked in and silently tied up. 1800 passengers were about to desend on the town! The expensive tourist shops were soon crowded; many were heading off for the Flam railway trip. Others took the adrenaline rush of a power boat ride bouncing across the lake and under waterfalls. My heart went out to the poor screaming child between two adults who were looking forward to the experience.

We headed off for a walk in the country!

The Flam railway is a 20.2-kilometer long line between Myrdal and Flåm. It is a branch line of the Oslo to Bergen Line, and runs through the valley of Flåmsdalen and connects the mainline with Sognefjord. Construction of the line started in 1924, with the line opening in 1940 and was built with little mechanical assistance.

The line's elevation difference is 863 meters; it has ten stations, twenty tunnels and one bridge. The maximum gradient is 5.5 percent (1:18). It is NOT a rack and cog line.

The train stopped twice; once for the downwards train to pass, and once for passengers to get out, and get drenched at the Kjosfossen Waterfall. Here a figure in a red dress tried to encourage us to follow her(?) deeper into the alpine areas, thus enacting an old fable of the area! In a few places you could see the zig zags where the train briefly came out of the series of tunnels.

Myrdal station was surrounded by snow, and from here the Bergen to Oslo line climbs higher to 1220m! Even in mid summer we saw a couple of ice covered lakes.

We then experienced a most bizarre event. A young female attendant was left behind at one of the brief stops. The train waited for her to catch up by taxi. As a result we were 40 minutes late into Oslo, and some people missed connections. There was speculation she was having a quick cigarette!

When we arrived at our hotel (approx 11pm local time) it was clearly full. So they put us in a suite on the top floor overlooking the Opera House and City Square. We keep losing each other in the place.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Bergen

Copyright © noel.moore@gmail.com. All comments and questions are welcome.

We left Aalesund at 1am and after watching the departure we retired to our cabin for a few hours sleep. While we slept we called at 2 ports, and we rose early before Floro. The cloud was hanging low over the islands (centre of collage) creating a mystical effect.

A couple of the passages between islands were less than the length of our ship, the MS Nordkapp.

By late morning the sun was out and we were into "the best summers days in 2 years"; according to an Australian living in Bergen. Locals were enjoying their weekend in the sun and on boats.

As we approached Bergen we passed under 2 bridges; one with minimal clearance.

 

We did not eat at Bergen's fish market which we felt was totally tourist oriented. They did have a great array of seafood, but at high prices. The were also doing a good trade in sausages made from reindeer, whale and moose.

Around town there were a number of perches for seagulls and pigeons.

 

 

Along the side of the old harbour, between the fish market and Rosenkrantz Tower, there are a series of old wooden warehouses. These have been converted into multiple specialist shops; commonly know as "tourist traps"! They could also be a fire trap with all that old wood. As we walked through we saw a group of local fire officers do ad hoc inspections.


Tourist groups were also being led through the alleys to observe the architecture and ambience. We saw groups #16, 17 and 18 from a cruise ship passing through in the time we were there. Surely they must start feeling like numbers?

On our last evening in Bergen, on our way back to the hotel, we noted that an organ recital was about to start in the Domkirk. It lasted 1 hour (precisely) and was scheduled as part of an "International Organ Festival".

Such a Festival shows a desire to broaden Bergen's appeal with a degree of entrepreneurship. Unfortunately the acoustics do not match those of the grand European gothic cathedrals.

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From Bergen we travelled by train to Voss. (Again the rail platform was 100 M (+/-10M) from our Hotel's front door.). At the station they were doing some ad hoc promotion of "Norway in a Nutshell", essentially the package we were following in our last 2 days.

At Voss we boarded a bus for the trip over "The steepest road in northern Europe"; 18% average, 20% maximum. Along the way the driver slowed or stopped for more waterfall pictures.

We then boarded MV Fjord1 for the trip along a V shaped fjord. At the point of the V the connection to the ocean heads off. We saw a few tourists who had to take the slow mode, namely kayaks.

Finally into Flam. And it was still raining. One of our few wet days.

 

 

 

 

********** I wrote 3 TripAdvisor reviews while in Bergen, including this restaurant review:

 

Geirangerfjord

Copyright © noel.moore@gmail.com. All comments and questions are welcome.

We boarded MS Midnatsol ("Mid night sun") in Alesund for the cruise up the Geirangerfjord.

We were soon marvelling at the way they guided a 16,000+ tonne ships around rocks and small islands on the way up the fjord.

The ship had a great range of facilities; everything you would expect on a modern cruise ship including a helipad, spa and pool on the back. Bars and restaurant. Being a sunny day they fired up the bar b que on the sun deck, and we had a steak and salad for lunch. Some people were using the on deck spar.

At the top of the fjord (scene bottom of collage) the ship did a 180° turn on the axis, and then just to show off, a full 360° turn on the spot.

 

 

 

This is our furthest point North.

 

 

 

We were treated to continuum of water pouring from all sides of the fjord; now into the full summer melt, particularly after a few warm days.

 

We had some company at the top of the fjord with a number of smaller day cruise boats in the area. At one stage the Captain sounded three blasts on the horn to warn others. The sound echoed around the fjord for some time.

There is a road into the top of Geirangerfjord, which we could see zig zagging down the side. This allows a range of camper vans to access the area.

The area was spectacular in warm sunny conditions 26 degrees plus in an area with snow capped mountains. Brilliant blue skies a rarity in this area with only 4 hours between sunset and sunrise it is never dark!

Road access gives flexibility, but a boat must be the Best way to see the whole fjord in a short time.

 

 

 

 

Oslo to Aalesund: 2 July 2015

Copyright © noel.moore@gmail.com All comments and questions are welcome.

Another big day! 4hrs by rail Oslo to Dombas following a string of lakes northward with Lillehamar being a major stop at which many tourists boarded. The train was of good quality with assigned seats with a restaurant car.

We passed thru alternate areas of wheat, fodder and timber.

The train was late into Dombas but the connecting train was waiting and we were rushed onboard. This was a smaller 'regional service'.

I have already commented that I judge Norwegian trains to be very good. They run on standard gauge (4 foot 8.5inch) and like Germany and Switzerland, single phase 15kV (I think) @ 16 2/3 Hz; mostly motor converted from commercial 50 Hz 3 phase.

 

A change of trains then thru the incredible Raumabanen vale for 125kM, including 2 x 180degree tunnels to zig zag down the valley side and multiple bridges swapping sides of the valley.

The volume of water cascading down is incredible. Everywhere you look it is rushing water!

 

Finally the valley flattened out and at Andalsnes we changed for a 2 hr bus trip to Alesund. The road passes through a 7kM tunnel and a number in the 2 to 4kM range. We were happy to get out of the bus and walk the few hundred metres with a couple from Melbourne to our hotel.

Alesund is near the ocean end of a series of fjords. It has a feeling of Venice to it with channels, sea, and islands in each direction, with boats of all types and sizes seeking harbour.

Sunset here is at 11:31pm tonight and it will be up 4hrs later! It never gets completely dark.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Oslo: Day 2

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The Viking Museum was an absolute highlight for me, returning 41 years after I first visited. The museum has changed little, but my reaction to it was new. My knees now hurt as I climbed the steps, but I viewed the Viking's construction with new understanding and appreciation. The museum contains 3 long ships recovered from burial mounds; the Oseberg ship, Gokstad ship and Tune ship. Additionally, the Viking Age display includes sledges, beds, a horse cart, wood carving, tent components, buckets and other grave goods.

The Oseberg ship (far left and bottom left) excavated from the largest known ship burial in the world.The burial mound dates from 834 AD, but parts of the ship date from around 800, and the ship itself is thought to be older. It was excavated in 1904-1905.

The ship is a clinker built "karv" ship built almost entirely of oak. It is 21.58 m long and 5.10 m broad, with a mast of approximately 9–10 m. With a sail of c. 90 m², the ship could achieve a speed up to 10 knots. The ship has 15 pairs of oar holes, which means that 30 people could row the ship. Other fittings include a broad steering oar, iron anchor, gangplank, and a bailer. It was an ornate pleasure craft.

The Gokstad ship (to right in photo) is also clinker-built and largely of oak. The ship was intended for warfare, trade, transportation of people and cargo. The ship is 23.80 metres (78.1 ft) long and 5.10 m (16.7 ft) wide. Dating suggests that the ship was built around 890 AD.

The clinkers-build method was widely used until the end of the 19th century, and variations are still used today. Iron rivets are about 180mm apart where the planks lie straight and about 125mm apart where the planks bend.

Pictures of a Medieval Christian church: inside and out.

The church was built around 1200 during the age of Catholicism in Norway. After the Reformation it was modified to accommodate the Lutheran liturgy. The term "stave church" refers to the staves, or posts, that support the roof.

 

The folk museum has a town area. Service station from early 1950s (although the VW is from 70s - my guess) and a shop from the 1920s.

 

 

 

Thor Heyerdahl historic Con Tiki Pacific voyage remains the centre piece of the museum. The collage of three photographs to the left show Con Tiki.

 

 

 

Since 1974 the museum has added the Ra2, Heyerdahl second boat of papyrus that crossed the Atlantic Ocean from Morocco in Africa in 1970. Ra1 and Ra2 were based on drawings and models from ancient Egypt. The first boat, named after the Egyptian Sun god was constructed by boat builders from Lake Chad using papyrus reed obtained from Lake Tana in Ethiopia and launched into the Atlantic Ocean from the coast of Morocco. Thor Heyerdahl insisted on an international crew. After a few weeks the boat began to sag and then break up! The knowledge of the ancients had been lost.

After further research of the ancients, in 1970 Ra2 sailed from Morocco and reached Barbados! Ancients could have crossed the Atlantic.

A strong maritime heritage is on display with water and boats/ships almost always in view in our travels of Norway.

 

 

The Polar ship Fram has its own museum, again little changed since 1974, but remains a fitting monument to Norwegian polar and Antarctic exploration, and by extension the exploits of Nansen and Roald Amundsen. Interestingly the fatal expedition of Scott to the South Pole is given significant coverage, which only serves to underline the much better prepared expedition of Amundsen.

And yes, polar bears are big and dangerous!

 

 

The Nobel Peace museum was new for both of us, and gives particular coverage of the 2015 Nobel Peace Prize laureates. The story of Malala is well known. The museum has a stunning hi tech room (bottom right) telling the stories of all peace prize winners.

An interesting fact is that as soon as winners are announced, top photographers are engaged to produce a portfolio to complement the winners story. It has produced some powerful photographs.

I was taken by the one of Al Gore balancing a stick on his noise to complete his message on climate change!

 

 

Oslo

Copyright © noel.moore@gmail.com All comments and questions are welcome.

Up early today (Tuesday 30 June) - 5:30am. A continental breakfast, then hire care to Dublin Airport (23Euro). Check in with Ryan Air was quick and smooth, through security and then connection onto the airport free wifi to finish yesterday's Blog.

Lenore captured some great pics on the way over Norway before landing at Olso (Rygge), the second airport.

60 seconds after entering the immigration queue we were in Norway having received a smiling greeting; no visa, no immigration card! Compare that with LHR!

We took a free shuttle bus to the train station and then the train from rural Rygge to Oslo; 180NOK each (AUD30) with free wifi, in seat audio, reclining chair, work desks and luggage racks! WOW! No wonder that Europeans don't appreciate Australian trains and stations.

Our flight from Dublin appeared to be 90% Norwegian returning from a shopping trip to Ireland. The rest were multinational tourists, who like us used the train into Oslo.

 

 

 

 

 

Arriving at Oslo central station (very modern and functional) it was a 100m walk from the end of the platform to the front door of our Hotel. Across the road on the other side is the Opera House on the harbour. Very white and angled.

We bought a quick snack at the railway station; a Focaccia, a muffin and 2 cups of juice. Cost AUD30! There are 3 VAT rates here with a general rate of 25%. No wonder people go to Ireland to shop.

 

 

 

As we entered the Akershus fortress a personable, young military policeman said that the King was in the Fort attending a musical event, but it was okay for us to walk around the grounds.

We could hear music, and as we approached the main entrance to the central building, happy musicians in national costumes started leaving. Then it became all business for the security detail. The military police stepped up next to the ceremonial guards, and then a big black Audi with motorcycle out riders and escort car were on the move. All too quick for me to accurately aim the camera. But there he was, the King of Norway in the back seat.

 

 

 

About 100 ladies in traditional dress left after the Kings departure.

 

There was a cruise ship in Oslo today docked next to the fort; Disney Magic to be precise.

Our guide books tells us that Norway is noted for seafood and shellfish, which tourists should sample. Sounds like good advice!

 

We also noted charging points for electric cars in two locations. Interesting!

 

 

 

 

 

Lenore again demonstrated her skills with this stunning key hole shot through a public sculpture to the central city flower market, with Oslo Cathedral in the background.