Tuesday, 17 May 2016

May 2016: Dubrovnik: pearl of the Adriatic

 
Lenore and I walked around the city walls on our first afternoon, just as we did with a 2 year old daughter in 1981. The complete wall is one of many features that makes Dubrovnik such a magnet, and a reason why the shelling of Dubrovnik, including the Old Town - UNESCO World Heritage Site - became a public relations disaster for Serbia and Montenegro, contributing to their diplomatic and economic isolation and the international recognition of the independence of Croatia. It was clear to see in so many places the repaired damage to walls and roofs from the war; a sign that the "men who try to take with force" did not succeed. We took a second floor apartment in the old town, from where we can see the daily flood of tourists, many off cruise ships, get their few hour exposure to Dubrovnik before it is off to the next port. The full tourist buses unload near the main (Pile) Gate on the hour, empty buses pick up on the half hour. The weather has been wet on a couple of days. I felt sorry for the tourists on the cruise ships that were in port yesterday. It was quite wet at times, so they were huddling in groups in and out of the souvenir shops. At least today's group will have some bright photos. For such a major tourist site the local authorities keep the streets very clean; rubbish bins every 20m! Being sunny we headed off on the local bus service (excellent) to the north to walk around a headland, consumed a seafood pizza, and then back to the Franciscan Monastery- Museum. Particularly pointed is a rocket hole in the wall 1M from a Peter Paul Rubens painting: from when the Serbs shelled the town in 1991-2.
The main square in the Old Town is close to the City Harbour and is flanked by a medieval clock tower and Saint Blaise's Church, the patron Saint of Dubrovnik. Twins "Maro" and "Baro" are the bronze bell ringing figures who have now became tinted green from the salt air. Summer concerts are held in the main square; not a square meter is under-utilised.
Dubrovnik today is highly reliant on tourism; almost every available space is used for outdoor cafes and restaurants. One square multitasks: morning market, afternoon/ evening restaurant.
Dobrovnik built its wealth through trade; mainly trans-shipping goods between the east and western Mediterranean. They were constant rivals and often in open conflict with the Venetians. This rivalry drew them into alliances with the Ottomans and Spanish, who were also their major trading partners. Venice was one end of the Silk Road to China, and Istanbul the other. At their height they were an independent Republic. Dubrovnik based shipping companies were prominent until WW1 which caused major disruption and WW2 hastened the decline.  
An unaccompanied male choir entertains in the streets, and two pix from the city wall. (If you though that the ladder behind the alter in the church (above) was out of place, how about this one?)                          
Top: Musician near Pile Gate and the gate itself. Bottom: Local fresh fish is great and similar price to Australia, and the street near our apartment.  

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