Dragon Kingdom: Departure 30 Mar 15

So what are our thoughts of Bhutan. It is a different tourist destination only touched to a limited extent by tourists. It has the cleanliness, strong anti-corruption stance and national pride of Singapore, the friendliness of Thailand, the religious commitment of Tibet, and the mountains of Nepal.

King number 4 was clearly far sighted and guided slow gradual change, including retiring at 60 and handing over to his son. The commitment to national dress and mandating of national features into buildings has certainly enhanced national identity.

Economically they are comfortable with the export of hydro power to India their biggest generator of income, with tourism second. Economically they are tied to India which is probably not a bad place to be. Their currency is pegged, Indian notes are accepted, and Indians do not require a Visa to enter and this is reciprocal. A challenge is the geopolitical tension between China and India, soon to be the two biggest economies in the world.

On the down side they do not have sufficient flat land to grow the cereal they need. India can probably supply the shortfall or they could introduce high productivity strains. They do receive aid from many countries including Australia. As I approached Tiger Nest I came into conversation with an Australian lady who is in Bhutan for a year, sponsored by Australian Government and the Red Cross. She is a psychologist and will be undertaking analysis of children with special needs.

Overall Bhutan is an interesting travel destination with their efforts to maintain national costumes, 60% of land designated to forests, protection of the environment as a goal. All these ingredients combine in the catch phrase of Gross National Happiness.

Tourism is expanding! We flew out on the first flight by Drukair's fourth A319, that will expand connections to further destinations. We had a great trip due in part to our great guide (on right) and driver (left).

Best wishes Bhutan!

 

Dragon Kingdom: Day 6; 29 March 15.

The challenge for today was to climb the 900M to Tiger Nest at 3100m, located just outside Paro. Just when you think you are there and look across to the Temples (top right) you are faced with 900 steps down and then up again to the Temples. I found this the hardest part of the whole climb. Even when you finally enter the complex, there are steep climbs between levels.

 

In summary, let's just say I am a very tired boy tonight!

 

Dragon Kingdom: Day 4- Taro

 

We visited the annual Festival at Taro which is located at the top of a mountain climb from Punakha. The festival is held in the grounds of a temple (left) on a flat grassed area. The dances are standard Buddhist dances performed only by men. We learnt much more about the dances when we visited the Paro museum on Day 5.

The dancers wear wooden masks that we were told are owned by the temple. A number of "wardrobe malfunctions " occurred with the headgear; these were corrected while the other dancers improvised. Nothing that a little Velcro wouldn't fix.

The various dances and songs were linked by 4 very active clowns who spent the majority of time "on stage". We couldn't understand their dialogue, but some of their one liners must have been fantastic judging by the audience reaction. From time to time they would bestow a fertility blessing on the head of a young woman.

Photos of one of the clowns (left) and 'the Band' lead by the older gentleman on symbols leaving the younger players to contribute on the single note horns.

 

The locals brought their picnic lunches with them. We gave a spare boiled egg and banana to this young girl in the care of a grand mother. The audience had an under representation of teenage boys and younger men. The ladies and monks alike spent time drinking butter tea, and chewing beetle leaves.

For me a personal highlight was when a young monk came over and sat next to me for a 20+ minute chat! We discussed cricket (naturally) Australia having just beaten India in the World Cup. He knew many of the Au team and past legends. He is also a fan of Nicole Kidman and Hugh Jackman.


He completed a BBA (HR) before becoming a monk and in 2 years time he will go to one of the 3 Buddist Universities to do his Masters of Buddism.

I was sorry when we were interrupted by his smart phone ringing. It was his mother saying his lunch was ready! She with his father and brother had come from the nearby village for the Festival.

Archery is the national sport of Bhutan, and we were lucky enough to see this competition between 2 teams of professionals. They were shooting at the 150M range. I could hardly see the target, but the shooter and some of the other competitors seemed to know immediately whether it was going to hit the target. I guess when you shoot every day, you just know.

 

 

This group of women at the Taro Festivals sang a number of songs in a chant like form with limited movements and often holding hands.

 

 

 

Dragon Kingdom: Day 3

 

From Thimpu we drove up over a range reaching 3100m. At the top is this memorial to Bhutanese solders loss (about 10) in the war against separatist Rebels who were based in Bhutan seeking an independent (from India) Assam.

Along the full length of the 70 kM windy road was significant earth work widening the road. Of interest most construction work in Bhutan is performed by Indian labour. There is little interest in performing this work by locals.

After an enjoyable lunch with the top scene out our window, we walked through the terraced fields and village and up to the hill to the ancient temple. In the grounds of the temple, young monks were studying.

 

 

In the afternoon we visited the great Dzong at Punakha, at the junction of the 'male' and 'female' rivers. A very impressive building accessed by a counter lever bridge. There was a large jacaranda tree in the grounds and wild bees left to build their hives on the end of the building. Lenore captured an all too graphHe ic photo of the ladies Bhutanese toilets.







 

It was then the walk across the 160M Pho Chhi suspension bridge. On the far side was a little general store and our guide decided to shout us a Druk 11000 beer. Druk mean Bhutan, and at 8% alcohol I recon it takes you straight to 11,000 feet!

 

 

 

 

Dragon Kingdom: Day 2

 

We visited the Tango University for Buddhist Studies. I was told that the monks walk up from the car part in 20 minutes. I took 1 hr 20 min including many stops to recovery. It was a unique experience to sit in a room with over 100, possibly 200 monks chanting. When they graduate theY will be Masters at various monistories.

 

I was then able to view their temple Buddhas with relics, before retracing our steps down the slope. There is a variety of vegetation on the slopes, including bright red flowering rhododendrons.

 

(Top right) the one traffic control point in Bhutan, with a policewoman on duty in the centre of a crossroads.

(Left) the worlds largest Buddah, a 51m high bronze figure on a hill overlooking Thumphu.

(Bottom right) the story of Dzongs.

 

 

 

 

Dragon Kingdom

We landed at Paro on our Royal Bhutan Airlines (Drukair) A319 right on time after flying down a valley leading to Paro. Definitely a Visual Flight Rules only approach. Progress thru immigration and customs was business like and we we soon outside and greeted by our guide and driver. We headed towards the capital Thimphu with a couple a brief stops along the way. The Stupas by the river junction are: far left, Nepalese style; far right Tibetan style, and centre (larger) Bhutanese style.

 







The man on the far right was circulating the National Memorial Chorten, with a prayer wheel. He had supplemented the national dress with a serviceable hat.

 

Late in the afternoon we visited the Thimphu Dzong to watch the flag lowering Ceremony in which these 3 monks participated. We then viewed the temple within, before the sky opened with some very cold rain drops with just a few snow flakes.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Faces of Nepal

Centre: Ladies carrying a load up-hill.

Top right: Older men at a meeting place.

Mixing clay and ash by hand to make bricks.

Ladies carrying a load (again).

A man in traditional dress existing the Golden Gate, Bhaktapur.

 

Centre: a group of ladies have finished cutting a crop, and start to carry it using the head band approach.

Top right: A young artist in Bhaktapur doing extremely fine work.

An old man sits near the large wheels being assembled into a cart used for the annual procession of a Hindu God around Bhaktapur.

A man buys a cauliflower; fruit and veg is of great quality in the Valley.

Lady sitting in a door way, knitting.

 

 

Katmandu 20 Mar 2014: part 2.

 

On the right is a guard in traditional uniform within the Royal Palace; the last King was deposed (retired?) in 2008 when a coalition government with Marist elements was formed as part of a peace agreement that appears to have stuck.

Top left is a photo taken from level 4 of the "9 level Palace" looking out through the Palace.

Bottom left is a man in traditional Nepalise dress silently watching speakers at a High School protest for "respect women". We saw the students marching earlier in the day, not knowing that they were headed to Durbar Square.

 

Katmandu: 20 March 2015

 

We were greeted at the entrance to Katmandu Durbar Square by this couple in exaggerated Hindu 'holy man' costume. I have never seen or heard of a female Hindu holy figure, Hindus are a minority in Nepal, and this pair certainly wanted money for their photo; he suggested 500R, I gave him 100R. The square is World Heritage listed and has an entrance fee of 750R each for foreigners (about AUD 10). We were immediately fielding offers from guides, which we declined. 30 years ago when I walked through the square, there was no fee, few foreigners and no guides.

We started the morning by going to Swayambhu Stupa; 200R entrance, many pilgrims and French speaking tourists. Therefore many French speaking vendors.

Swayambhu Stupa takes your breath away in many ways! It's size, its artistry and the fact that Buddhist pilgrims have come here since the 5th century AD. Its origins however, date to a much earlier time, long before the arrival of Buddhism. The flapping prayer flags are a lasting memory.

Its lofty white dome and glittering golden spire are visible for many miles and from all sides of the valley.

The Sherpa spirit lives! These guys are running loads up stone steps to vendors near the Stupa.

 

 

 

 

'Ganga Maiya' (Mother Ganga); 18 & 19 March 2015

 

The River Ganges or Ganga is perhaps the holiest river in any religion. ... in Hinduism and respectfully referred to as 'Gangaji' or 'Ganga Maiya' (Mother Ganga).

With sunset approaching we fight, almost literally, our way though the crowds; pilgrims, tourists, shoppers, cows and children playing.

Cremations take place at any time of day, but possibly with day light fading, the urgency increases at Manikarnka Ghat.

A couple of cows wandered between the Philes feeding on floral wreaths.

 

 

 

The sunset ritual (top) is performed by 7 bramins, and the sunrise by a sole bramin. Both are about 1 hour duration. They are performed by young bramin as they are physically demanding; especially the sunrise ritual.

 

 

 

Sunrise over the Ganges!

 

 

 

 

 

People performing the morning (bathing) ritual. They will then receive instruction from a bramin and then go to a Temple.

 

Lenore and Noel heading out onto the Ganga.

 

 

 

 

 

These boys are performing a constant Indian ritual at sunrise. Cricket!

There are naturally local rules; on the full into Ganga is not 6! It is out!

 

Sariska National Park: 12 March 2015. DRAFT

 

We had a 4hr excursion through the Park by Jeep.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The Rufous Treepie assist deer by removing parasites from their coats, including getting right into their ears.

 

India: Lucknow sights, 16th March 2015

There are some magnificent sights in Lucknow that attest to its Great wealth in the 18th and 19th centuries, much of which was given away to the British East India Company; half of the state plus favourable 'loans' to fund the Company's expansion in S.E. Asia.

From my schooling in Queensland (about Year 5) I had learnt the story of the relief of Lucknow; a very British view of how the brave British held out against the Sepoys mutiny in 1857. Lenore being in a NSW school was learning Australian history.

See 'Historical background', below:

* * *

“There is no city—except Bombay, the queen of all—more beautiful in her garish style than Lucknow, whether you see her from the bridge over the river, or from the top of the Imambara looking down on the gilt umbrellas of the Chutter Munzil, and the trees in which the town is bedded.”

Excerpt From: Kipling, Rudyard. “Kim.” iBooks.

Bada Imambara's height is 50 m and was built by Asaf-ud-Daula, Nawab of Lucknow, in 1784; his portrait is on the left as displayed in the Tower Gallery together with those of his ancestors and following generations. His successor was exiled to Calcatta in 1856 by the Bristish as they felt his attention was too much on his 365 concubines and not matters of State.

Bada means big, and an imambara is a shrine built by Shir Muslims. Architectural style is Mughal.

The photo top right is of one of the gardens and gate complexes to the compound which also includes a mosque and a step well.

 

 

 

 

The Imambara's front facade.

 

 

L and N on the external side of the gallery level. The internal side of the gallery has you high over the main hall (the photo below). The cross over between internal and external walk ways gives insight to the 'light weight' hollow construction.

 

The main hall. There is a large domed room at each end of the hall.

 

 

 

Christian churche's do exist. I had a brief chat with the Rev Maxton.

 

 

 

 

 

 

“but the best schooling a boy can get in India is, of course, at St Xavier's in Partibus at Lucknow.”

Excerpt From: Kipling, Rudyard. “Kim.” iBooks.

 

Historical Background

The Indian Rebellion of 1857 began as a mutiny of sepoys of the East India Company's army on 10 May 1857, and quickly spread to many locations. Horrific atrocities were carried out by all sides over the following year.

The British Commissioner resident at Lucknow had enough time to fortify his position inside the Residency compound. The Company forces numbered some 1700 men, including loyal sepoys. After 90 days of siege the numbers of Company forces were reduced to 300 loyal sepoys, 350 British soldiers and 550 non-combatants.

The mutiny is sometimes called the first Indian War of Independence, and lead to the replacement of the East India Company by the British Raj.

 

India: Lucknow; 16th March 2015: overview.

Lucknow has a number of interesting sites, and we were not unhappy that we had taken the time to overnight. Those on a world wind tour of half a day probably cover the highlights. After the "trials of the train" from New Delhi our hotel was okay, and we ate dinner in the restaurant trying to stay away from hot Indian hot food! We only parly succeeded and enjoyed ice cream for desert! Lenore's opinion is coloured by a cold shower experience.

The hotel was located on a significant urban road so for many hours we had the constant honking of horns. There was also heavy rain, much lightning and loud electronic music from a party in the hotel (Sunday night!). On that Sunday there was much crop damage and a dozen deaths in Rajisthan from the unseasonable heavy rain and hail.

In spite of all this we soon fell asleep and I slept until the 'sunrise call to prayer' drifted in. Soon the horns started again.

The taxi driver from the station who used the "pay what ever you want" strategy, tried to book us for a day tour. We arranged a car from the hotel instead; 1200rp plus parking charges for the day. He dropped us at the railway station well in advance of our train.

We filled in the afternoon with one shop for textiles and spending an hour in a park in New Lucknow (across the river from the original town). The park charged a small entrance fee, plus parking, and was promoted as a haven for birds; what we saw included many couples sitting and reclining, holding hands, cuddling and exchanging a peck on the cheek. Where this fits into the arranged marriage methodology, I am not sure! (The bird park visit was the result of the elephant park across the road being closed on Mondays, and did provide quite reasonable 'public toilets' - a great surprise.)

 

India: New Delhi to Lucknow

We had read that the way to see the "real India" was to travel by train. Our expectations had been set by reading official and independent train travel reviews! What we experienced well under achieved expectations, and I arrived tired, sore and ashamed that I had subjected Lenore to the journey. A strong positive, the trip was better for the help of the Indian man sitting next to Lenore.

The arrival at New Delhi station was the expected maze of people, many sleeping on the floor. We were engulfed with porters, who we initially rejected. There was a large electronic display board of train departures. Interestingly trains are know to locals by their names, e.g., "xxxxxx express".

When we realised that our train departed from platform 12, we engaged two porters to carry our two bags; 250rp from memory. No escalators or lifts at these stations. They rolled their scarfs into a ring which they put onto their heads to cushion the weight. The other piece of vital info is your carriage number so that they can deposit you to the correct location on the platform. For each train they seem to know where the carriages on the very long trains arrive, or they ask a porter friend who works that platform.

There was a range of vendors on the platform; fruit, water, chai, newspapers/books in both Hindi and English. Also the beggars!

We were once again the subject of much interest and I soon found myself in conversation with a group of porters from Rajasthan; the topic, cricket of course! The World Cup, Rajasthan Royals and what a great captain Shane Warne was! They know the Australian greats! One asked me how old I was, possibly because most Indian men of the same age look much older.

 

 

 

When the train arrived there was an almighty crush as locals pushed to get onto the train to claim luggage space, with all seats assigned by number. We were the only 'foreigners' as they are called here;typically entrance prices are ten times higher for foreigners. When we pushed our way on we discovered that the carriage (one of 3 AC Chair carrages) was 3 abreast each side of the aisle, close spaced without reclining. Our seats were window and centre ( not aisle) as expected. Fortunately the man on the aisle who spoke some English assisted rearrangement of some luggage to allow space for ours to join the precariously balanced items on the racks. My backpack and food bag had to stay on the floor between my legs.

The train left 15 minutes late and arrived in Lucknow, 500kM distant the same amount late. The Indian Railways, the largest employer in the world, certainly moves large numbers great distances at low cost ; AUD 10 each for the highest available class. Cars and porters cost us more.

All seats were full (the norm), the seats cramped and uncomfortable, the toilets beyond description; one sit down toilet and 3 'Indian toilets ' with the outlet straight to the tracks! Chai, drink, snack vendors walked the aisle. At one longer stop you could get off and buy from the platform (see photo above of fruit seller; they also carry their heavy wares on their heads), and at later stops hot food vendors came on board to sell a variety of meals. Soon the smell of curry engulfed the carriage and helped mask the smell of toilets. When I saw an Indian lady and then man open an Indian toilet door, pull a face and quickly close it, I knew not to go there!

 

 

Day 5: 4th March 2015

 

We spent a night in Castle Bijaipur; a 16th century castle that is now converted into a heritage hotel run by the local ruling family.


We were entertained by welcoming music at the gate supplemented by our guide on key board. In the evening we were entertained in the central courtyard while drinks were served and then had an excellent Indian meal by the pool.

The current maharaja circulated during dinner and chatted with each of us. Photos of his ancestors were displayed in the sheltered pavilion near our room.

 

 

 

Before dinner we took a stroll through the nearby town and stopped to drank chi. Again we were a source of quirosity for the locals including the 5 guys on a motorcycle (count the legs).

We were now starting to understand the layout of these rural towns with their administration quarter; police, ambulance, tax administration, schools et al.

As it was evening farm workers and cattle alike were returning to their homes for the night.

 

 

India Day 11: 10th March 2015

We spent the night at Fort Sawarda, a small fort surrounded by a village of about 5,000 people. It is still the residence of the nobles of the Khangarot clan - an offshoot of the Jaipur royal family.

We were drummed into the Fort, so having been so honoured we decided to dress for dinner.

 

 

Before dinner we did the now usual "village walk" which started with a visit to a home were dinner was starting to be prepared; ground millet baked on a hot plate and then chared by the direct flame. The young boy of the house (centre, top of photo) proudly read his alphabet with English words, to us. Again we were of great interest to the locals. A couple of us even were invited to hold a baby. We were all impressed with how friendly the people were towards us.

As evening was falling there was a stream of workers returning from the field; walking, riding on tractors, or herding goats or cattle. All were happy!

 

The walk lead us out of the town past the piles of drying dung (fuel to burn), past the cremation slabs, to examine an old and now disused step well. We then stopped at a senic spot overlooking what becomes a large lake during the monsoon. Our hosts had brought plastic stackable chairs to site and started a fire and served us real chai as the sun set.

In the fading twilight I took a photo of this tranquil scene; the boat that is essential in the monsoon and children playing under the large banyan tree.

While the lake is largely dry it is a fertile area for the growing of crops.

We then had another 'Mirhandra jeep' ride back to the Fort.

 

 

“ Kim bought a handful of dung-cakes to build a fire. All about, coming and going round the little flames....."

Excerpt From: Kipling, Rudyard. “Kim.” iBooks.

India 9 & 10: 8&9 March 2015

 

The Fort and Palace at Judhpur stands high on a hill overlooking the town. With its steep assents and multiple walls and gates it presents a formidable image of power.

Again there are multiple luxurious rooms, ornate architecture, and possessions such as this collection of "salon chairs", and elephant 'saddles'. (The gate height in all these palaces is very high to allow entry by Royalty on elephant back, and the steeper slopes of the assent are heavily groved to assist traction.) The gates also have large spikes from approx 2M above ground to discourage attacking elephants trying to push the gates in!

 

 

Judhpur is a bustling town requiring great caution and vigilance in crossing roads. The clock tower in the centre of town is quite famous!

We saw a very large flock of cranes at a water hole, feeding on provided grain. They were being harassed by ibises and took flight. They were soon joined by more cranes who knew It was feeding time.

 

 

We also saw many blackbucks such as this one near the pond. The blackbuck is a species of antelope native to the Indian subcontinent that has been classified as near threatened as their population has decreased sharply during the 20th century.







There were many birds in the area including this bluejay siting on a rock.


 

The area was marginal for farming and the monsoon often delivers little rain. This camel herder was proud to have his photo taken!

 

 

 

One cottage industry is rug making. This weaver is quite famous and was proud that he had been visited by Rockerfeller and Greg Chappell with wife and daughter.

A couple of our party bought rugs.

 

 

 

Farmers in the area grow opium poppies (a Government license is required) and many farmers are users. This farmer said that he has an "opium tea" drink twice a day to give an energy lift. Possession of up to 10 grams for personal use is legal. The farmer gave a demo of grinding 1 gram of opium resin and making the tea, offered prayers to Shiva, and then offered to share his tea with visitors.

 

 

Faces in India; Udaipur

 

Locals are proud of their appearance and many like having their photos taken. Some men take particular pride in there moustaches.

In the case of individuals, we always ask before taking their photo, and many of the children do wish to see their photo.

o

We were charmed by our accommodation in Udaipur. Even the shy hummingbirds like it! This is where we celebrated the Holi Festival.

A Persian wheel is still used to lift water in remote rural areas. The local indigenous cattle are "long horns"!

 

“There was a drowsy buzz of small life in hot sunshine, a cooing of doves, and a sleepy drone of well-wheels across the fields.”

Excerpt From: Kipling, Rudyard. “Kim.” iBooks.

 

 

 

India Day 2: 1st March 2015

This is Taj Mahal day! Few tourist destinations are as recognisable, but the day presented so much more! Firstly our introduction to the countryside, and the the magnificent Agra Fort. Unfortunately the day was unseasonably wet and cool, with heavy downpours.

I found it hard to do justice to Agra Fort in photos. Built by the invading Mogol's, it is large, well fortified, ornate and perfected many of the architectural features included in the Taj Mahal.

 

 

 

 

From the walls you get a first glimpse of the Taj Mahal.

 

 

 

It has all been said before!

 

 

 

Mr Kahn provide expert site guidance plus photographic and crowd control services.

A holly man receives a free meal from vendors, and man on a bamboo ladder makes some ad hoc additions to the overhead infrastructure!